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Epi Joe Pass stock pot replacement

 
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n8leon



Joined: 31 May 2012
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Epi Joe Pass stock pot replacement Reply with quote

I bought a used Epi Joe Pass a few weeks.
It is probably at least 10 years old, but is in great shape.

The only issue I could find was the crackle on all of the pots.
I have read where you usually can fix 'em up (at least temporarily) with electronics contact cleaner or DeoxIT type sprays.
But I have also read that the stock pots are not very high quality.
So it seems to me, if I'm going to go thru the hassle and expense of cleaning them, maybe I should just replace them (and the 3-way switch?) and not have to do it again for a long time.

However, I can't find the specs on what Epiphone used for the stock pots so I'm not sure which ones to get as a replacement. I'd like to have 'em on hand when I start the project.

What do folks recommend?
(e.g. 250 vs. 500K, CTS vs. Bourns, linear vs. log, dimensions, etc...)

TIA,
n8
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trotsky



Joined: 24 May 2007
Posts: 438
Location: Sarnia Ontario Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am ashamed to admit that even after all these years with the guitar being a big part of my life all that stuff is still a mystery to me.
I dont whats in my guitars or what makes them play well either.
Our local amp/guitar guru was talking about giving a course on it.... I hope he follows through with that.

As for your post... I would say replacing them is the way to go for sure ...but I have no idea what to replace them with.

Good luck...hopefully somebody with a little more knowledge will chime in here.

Gene
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Gorecki
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Joined: 06 Oct 2005
Posts: 62518
Location: Davis, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are 500K potentiometers in there. I want to say, a pot is a pot, but that's not *absolutely* true, but you could get four from the same vendor and the resistance sweep, wide open, fully closed could minorly differ for each.

Cleaning them is an option but in truth you have to basically disassemble the pot to truly clean it and if you're that far in frankly it's easier to just replace them. Unless you're going for some 'all original vintage' thing.

If you want to avoid altering your sound and sweeps, attempt to replace with a 'stand' setup and wiring. And don't be shocked if it actually sounds better once you've swapped out the pots.

I get most of my stuff from stewmac.com, they'll have pretty much anything you could need as well as diagrams and instructions if you're not shy with a soldering pencil.
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n8leon



Joined: 31 May 2012
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, I'll look for 500K.
I see StewMac carries Alpha and CTS, and it looks like CTS get a slightly higher rating.
One has fine and the other has coarse knurling.
Huh - not sure which I need. Is there a well-known definition for those? (e.g. # of knurls on the nob) I'd hate to have to buy new nobs too.
Also, I'm assuming I don't need the 3/4" long shaft?

I'm comfortable with a soldering iron, as it is a necessary tool for my other hobby. (R/C helis)

I'm not clear on what you mean here:
"replace with a 'stand' setup and wiring"

What is a "stand" setup?
Should I plan to replace all of the wiring since I'm dragging everything out?

Thanks!
n8
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Gorecki
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Joined: 06 Oct 2005
Posts: 62518
Location: Davis, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

n8leon wrote:

Also, I'm assuming I don't need the 3/4" long shaft?

I'm comfortable with a soldering iron, as it is a necessary tool for my other hobby. (R/C helis)

I'm not clear on what you mean here:
"replace with a 'stand' setup and wiring"

What is a "stand" setup?
Should I plan to replace all of the wiring since I'm dragging everything out?

n8


Simply make sure the pot shaft(s) you get are the same as being replaced, spec's should be listed where you purchase them.

'Stand' is a typo. Confused It should be 'standard'. Meaning, there are many wiring options using different caps...etc. Simply stick to what's in there now.

You shouldn't need to replace the wire but it's entirely up to you! Wink
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n8leon



Joined: 31 May 2012
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the clarifications.

Fortunately, I have digital calipers, so was able to verify a few dimensions without removing the pots entirely.

Looks like the standard 3/8" shaft will do perfectly.

A few curious things still...
I get about 5.8 mm on the shaft diameter, whereas StewMac lists
5.95 mm on CTS and 6.0 mm on Alpha pots.

Also, I count 16 splines on the shaft, , whereas StewMac lists
24 on CTS and 18 on Alpha pots.

Maybe the two extra on the Alpha counts for the split shaft?

I'll clarify these with StewMac also.

Thanks,
n8
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Gorecki
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Joined: 06 Oct 2005
Posts: 62518
Location: Davis, CA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

n8leon wrote:
A few curious things still...
I get about 5.8 mm on the shaft diameter, whereas StewMac lists
5.95 mm on CTS and 6.0 mm on Alpha pots.

Also, I count 16 splines on the shaft, , whereas StewMac lists
24 on CTS and 18 on Alpha pots.

Maybe the two extra on the Alpha counts for the split shaft?

I'll clarify these with StewMac also.


Those differences in diameter are somewhere in the neighborhood of a human hair, right? It may make a tight squeeze but they do tend to push in at the split so it might be fine. But if they are cut differently you may have to go for knobs as well, that's not uncommon at all! Trying to think of how many times I didn't swap out knobs and it's been only a few.

Definitely get some conformation from Erlewine's folks.
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